I can’t tell you how many times I get a message starting with “I know you’re a seamstress so…”

My heart sinks a little every time someone refers to me as a seamstress or stitcher. Not because there is anything wrong with being a professional stitcher but because it tells me that this person reaching out to me doesn’t have a clear understanding of what I do and bring to the table as a creative artist.

Can I do SOME of the things a seamstress can do? Yes. But as a designer I don’t have the capability and resources to do all that a professional stitcher does. I can’t produce garments at the high rate of an experienced seamstress. I don’t have all the tools and industrial grade machines that a professional seamstress would have, nor the training on how to use them. I have patterning skills but they don’t have the efficiency and accuracy of a professional seamstress or patterner. I will never claim to be a seamstress. A professional seamstress can out sew me with their eyes closed. 

Similarly, a seamstress cannot tackle all of the aspects of design that I can. I have the skills to layer fabrics to create an illusion under certain light. I have the insight to source various materials to create an overall look. I do the research to ensure historical accuracy. I can create an original design for a garment with limited information to pull inspiration from. None of these things should be expected from a seamstress. 

By calling me a seamstress you are discounting at least 50% of what I contribute to any project. Even cosplay commissions that are based on an existing design require designs skills to replicate looks, especially if you like to put your own original twist on it like I do. 

There is a new term floating around that I am really starting to love: Sewist. It’s a combination of Artist and Sewer, making it the perfect title for someone who combines creativity and design with sewing skills. An added perk is that it is non-gendered! 

Here is a little guide to help you know what type of service you are looking for:

You need a seamstress if….

• You need a repair

• You need something altered to fit you better

• You have a pattern and just need something made using that pattern exactly

• You need multiple of one garment made

• You need knowledge regarding fit

• Your primary needs involve the construction of the garment

You need a Designer if….

• You need an original/custom piece

• You need something historically accurate or inspired

• You need multiple people costumed to create one overall cohesive look

• You need a character specific piece

• You need knowledge fabrics & trim

• YOU NEED help turning your ideas into one cohesive design that can then be produced

You need a Sewist if….

• You need an original costume designed, created and tailored to fit you

• You need a character inspired piece 

• You need a combination of things from the “Designer” and “Seamstress” lists

When I book clients I am always very honest about my capabilities and what I believe to be doable. If a project is out of my skill set I will always refer them to another Sewist or Stitcher who I feel will give them a higher quality finished product. But when it comes to the design and planning of a piece, I am completely capable and full of knowledge to share. 

The moral of the story is don’t be insulted or surprised when the Costume Designer you asked to hem a skirt or crank out 5 basic pirate shirts says no. There are plenty of professional tailors and stitchers in your community who can do those things expertly and would likely appreciate your business. 

Stay Creative!

Your Costume Designer,

Annie